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SIMPLY SHANGHAILICIOUS 品雅致经典沪菜

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Steven Yang

Executive Chef of Shanghai Marriott Hotel City Centre


Perfectly situated in the core of the hustling and bustling Shanghai city, Shanghai Marriott Hotel City Centre holds a superb five stars when it comes to location, service, facilities and comfort. However, if one is not staying in the hotel as a guest, they should still definitely find time to dine in it’s Man Ho Chinese restaurant, a beautiful Chinese restaurant serving authentic Shanghainese cuisine.

EZ had a rare opportunity to chat with Executive Chef, Steven Yang, who specializes in Chinese cuisine. From the conversation, it is obvious that Steven is not only talented but passionate about his cooking especially when he described the restaurant’s three signature Shanghai dishes with pride.

想在高尚豪华且舒适的餐厅里,品尝优质的上海菜色,位于市中心的上海雅居乐万豪酒店里的万豪中餐厅是绝佳的选择。Steven Yang 杨之蔚是个对食材用料十分用心的主厨。万豪中餐厅三道最特色的上海菜式为:花雕醉乳鸽 (preserved pigeon with huadiao wine)、香槽蛋白虎虾球 (fragrant grained tiger prawn with egg white)、大闸蟹粉葱油拌面 (onion oil noodles with hairy crab meat)。

preserved pigeon with huadiao wine
preserved pigeon with huadiao wine

 

First to be presented was the ever popular Shanghai drunken pigeon. This ‘Preserved Pigeon with Huadiao Wine’ dish is marinated with high quality rice wine above ten years of age together with specially selected herbs and spices for at least three days before carefully sliced and decorated into the shape of a flying pigeon. Customers are guaranteed to fall in love with the flavorful and tastiness of this exquisite dish with one bite.

花雕醉乳鸽 这一道美食呈现美观。乳鸽均衡切片陈列成孔雀形。嫩肉里的浓郁酒香是用上了十年以上的陈年花雕酒,加入各种香料、冰糖、话梅,把乳鸽浸泡上了三天以上才入味的。

Fragrant Grained Tiger Prawn with Egg White
Fragrant Grained Tiger Prawn with Egg White

The next dish incorporates sea catched big tiger prawns imported from other countries. On the menu, the dish is known as the Fragrant Grained Tiger Prawn with Egg White. Customers have praised this dish’s unique presentation because it looks like an art piece. The fresh tiger prawns are precisely cut into the shape of butterflies and served with a special sauce that has a touch of egg white. A first class dish indeed.

再有,香槽蛋白虎虾球的虎虾都是新鲜空运的。每只虎虾都在半斤以上。淋上虎虾的汁是上海特色的槽卤,也就是用香糟独家调制出来的一种调味汁。香槽卤,掺和着稀疏的蛋白,加在去壳的大虎虾,肉质韧劲十足,味道鲜美。

Onion Oil Noodle with Hairy Crab Meat
Onion Oil Noodle with Hairy Crab Meat

Nothing concludes a good night out in Shanghai than settling with a nice bowl of noodles. The last dish might look rather plain and simple, but do not let that fool you for the taste says otherwise. Served was a white bowl of noodles topped with some greens and the other was a black bowl of reddish sauce with green peas. A classic case of ‘appearance can be deceptive’, this Onion Oil Noodle with Hairy Crab Meat is not only complicated to prepare but it is also a seasonal menu item which is only available during the hairy crab season. The secret recipe sauce is made up of a perfect balance of hairy crab meat from a male crab and a female crab. Noodles are hand-pulled to perfection and when these two components are delicately combined, it takes on a heavenly taste which no other dish can duplicate.

大闸蟹粉葱油拌面的制作过程是一种艺术。先是制作大闸蟹粉,全全是手工制作。大闸蟹必需是公的和母的各对半数量,拨出蟹肉炒熟制成特别的酱汁。酱汁再用来拌葱油面。大闸蟹要逢季节才有,这道美食制作不易,十分经典,到了上海就别要忘了试试了!

Frank Sanders, Huck Theng Chng, Steven Yang
Frank Sanders, Ch’ng & Steven Yang

Pomeroy and Splendour 专属Pomeroy的波澜壮阔

Dug Pomeroy

Executive Chairman of Pomeroy Pacific

By Sloane Patterson

Dug Pomeroy Cover

Giving Victoria’s landscape new artistic strokes ever so often, the Dug Pomeroy signature has been emblazoned across Melbourne for the past 47 years, and is still trailblazing across the country with style and vehemence.

A qualified Master Builder, this Executive Chairman of Pomeroy Pacific holds Unlimited Building Licences in commercial and residential construction, and has a project portfolio in the billions of dollars.

Born in Tel Aviv, Dug is a special import from Israel.  He came to Australia at five and has been infatuated with the Australian lifestyle and infrastructure ever since. “I consider myself Australian. I love Australia, it’s my home and my country.”  Educated at a well-known private school in Burwood – Mount Scopus Memorial College, young Dug was always building something – model battleships, aeroplanes, cars and then moved on to brick and mortar behemoths. It was really no surprise that he studied architecture when he left school.

From a small three-metre-by-three-metre office with flannel wallpaper and pretty curtains at $8 rental per week, Dug’s first purchase and development was a piece of industrial land with no services or facilities. “I designed the industrial buildings and came up with an interesting toilet system like those on boats. Before we knew it, the first plot was leased and sold at record price.  Suddenly we were buying up the surrounding sites. Five years on, we had something like 20 different projects.”

Some of his notable works were 553 St Kilda Road where the American Consulate is based, Clarendon Towers, Southern Cross Tower and Queensbridge, to name a few. “We built the Boroondara Aquatic Centre, with the first swimming pool in the southern hemisphere to have a floor that can be raised. The Qantas Flight Simulator and the ABC Television Studios were also our projects. We were the first to start tilt-up construction and we had the reputation of undertaking the most difficult and complex building projects.” Some of the biggest houses in Victoria, shopping centres in the CBD and Box Hill, and more than 40 factories were all Pacific Pomeroy projects.

“We endured a massive haemorrhage from the 1990 recession, but survived. In the same year we also decided to concentrate more on project development management and project delivery. Those are exercises where we provide a full menu – from assessing site feasibility and purchase, financing, leasing and selling. We take the client through the development process until where he can cash his chips and make money. It’s not necessarily about the lowest price, it’s about the right price.”

As a teenager, all Dug wanted was to have a Gibson guitar like Paul McCartney and to drive an E Type Jaguar.  Having achieved that and then some, Dug of today, “Wants to be in a position where I can afford to have a reasonably full life. If you are dedicated and constantly strive for perfection, the money will follow. There is no room for compromise. Near enough is never good enough.”

The Pomeroy philosophy is to enjoy many things in life. “I love music, musicals, movies, art, fashion, cars, watches, books and travelling. I’m never bored.” There are, however, pet peeves.

“I dislike rudeness, ignorance, and am not a fan of belligerence.” 

“When I think of a company, it’s like passengers travelling on a train journey. They look out the window and can see what’s happening. I like to think of myself sitting on top of the train where I can see where we’ve been, my surroundings and where we are going. That is the key of being chairman of a company.”

Pomeroy1

过去的47年里,让维多利亚州的景观绽放全新的艺术风格,Dug Pomeroy 标志性的风格已经积极贯彻墨尔本各角落,并穿梭在全国范围内展开一场品味和激情的探索。

作为一名具备资格的建筑大师,Pomeroy Pacific这名执行主席在商业和住宅建设工程中持有无限建筑物许可证,并拥有数十亿元的项目投资组合。

他出生在以色列的特拉维夫,属于非常特殊的“进口”人群。在5岁时候来到澳大利亚,他就爱上了这里的生活方式和基础设施。“我认为自己是澳大利亚人。我爱它,这是我的家园和国家。” 在 Burwood 区一间著名的私人学院 – Mount Scopus Memorial College,这名年轻人一直在构建特别的作品—战舰、飞机或汽车模型,然后再转向砖头和水泥等庞然大物。他在离校后投入建筑设计,其实完全有迹可循。

从一间仅有3公尺长高,内部装饰着法兰绒壁纸和漂亮窗帘,每周租金8元的小办公室作为开端。Dug Pomeroy首次买下和发展的是一块没有任何服务或设施的工业用地。

“我设计的工业建筑中构思了一些在船上的有趣厕所系统。结果不自觉间首个发展计划以破记录的价格出租和出售,我们接着买下了周围的土地据点。直至5年后,手上有了20个不同的开发计划。”

他的杰出工程包括位于 St Kilda 路 553 号的美国领事馆基地、Clarendon Towers,Southern Cross Tower 和Queensbridge等。“我们建造了 Boroondara 水上中心,这个是南半球的第一个游泳池具备上升式的地板。澳洲航空公司的飞行模拟器和ABC电视台也是我们的计划。我们也是首个开始倾斜(立墙平浇)工程的公司,维持着承接高难度和复杂建筑项目的声誉。维多利亚州的一些大型住宅建筑,中央商务区 CBD 和 Box Hill 的购物商场,以及40多家工厂都是 Pomeroy Pacific 的项目计划。”

“1990年经济衰退时刻我们不可避免受到大面积冲击,但幸存了下来。同一年,我们还决定更多地关注计划开发管理和交付。这些是所提供的完整菜单练习—从评估土地的可行性和购买、融资,租赁和销售。我们把客户引入开发流程,直到他能把筹码兑换成现金并赚钱。这不一定必须是最低价格,而是最佳价格。”

在青少年时期,他向往着像 Paul McCartney 那样拥有一把 Gibson 吉他,开着一辆捷豹跑车。在实现了这一点之后,他现在想要处于一个合理充实的生活位置。

“如果你全身心投入,不断追求完美,钱财就会随之而来,这没有妥协的余地。没有最好,只有更好。”

Pomeroy 的哲学是尽情享受生活细节。“我喜欢音乐、音乐剧、电影、艺术、时尚、汽车、手表,书籍和旅游,我从来不无聊。然而,还是有厌烦的事物。我不喜欢鲁莽、无知,而且我也不好战。”

“当我想到公司,就联想到乘坐火车的旅客。他们从窗户往外看,外头景物一览无遗。我喜欢想象自己坐在火车上,我能看到我们去过的地方,周围和即将启程的方向。这是成为公司执行者的关键所在。”

TOP OF THE FOOD CHAIN 味蕾顶峰

Diana Chan
Winner of MasterChef Australia 2017
2017年澳大利亚顶级厨师冠军

By Billie Ooi-Ng Lean Gaik

Dian Chan Cover

It’s all about pushing boundaries. Do something different. Don’t be safe.

The little girl watched as her mother cooked, brewed and worked the wok in the kitchen, surrounded by herbs and juicy ingredients. She was never allowed to do the important tasks or even near the bubbling stove. As she stood there watching and absorbing with her big and beautiful eyes, nobody would have guessed she would one day take the grand trophy of MasterChef Australia 2017.

The air was galvanised when one million viewers watched judge Matt Preston award Diana Chan 9/10 for her dessert, just one point ahead of her toughest competitor. As the confetti rained down, Diana Chan, MasterChef Australia 2017 held the trophy jubilantly in her hands.

“I’ve always loved food. Mum is a Nyonya (Straits Chinese) from Singapore, while Dad and grandma are from Penang, Malaysia.”

At 19, Diana landed in Melbourne to pursue her tertiary education in accountancy. “I had a good palate and I wanted to enjoy great food but could not afford to eat out all the time. So I headed out to Camberwell market and immediately fell in love with the fresh produce, the sights, sounds and aroma of the market. I got very inspired. Didn’t know how to cook but I never stopped trying until I got better. Watching a lot of cooking shows helped too.”

While her true inspirations are her parents, Diana quoted a few favourite chefs. “I watch a lot of Yotam Ottolenghi. He reminds me of my mum who is herb-driven and uses a lot of vegetable. Simple to replicate but very tasty. George Calombaris is a progressive chef, who is very passionate about his restaurant The Press Club while I learned how to try different things from Anthony Bourdain.”

Diana Chan
Photo: Channel 10

Remember your core values and be proud of your heritage.  People can see through you if you are trying to be someone else

Diana wooed MasterChef judges with her spatchcock and abalone in green juice, oatmeal prawns in creamy curry sauce and a near-perfect creation of the Kirsten Tibballs dessert. “I just broke down and cried after my last cook. The pressure was so high, I was overwhelmed.”

To all the 2018 contestants, “It’s all about pushing boundaries. Do something different. Don’t be safe. At the same time, manage your expectations. And I always say get a lot of sleep. The hours are long and mentally stressful, as in any winning kitchen.”

Basking in the light of champions, Diana sees a restaurant in the pipeline. “Three things resonate with me – wholesome, fresh and fusion. These are the things I look for in a dish. I want to have a lot of input in the menu so that people can associate me with my food. With my accounting background, I plan to manage the business side too.”

While taking in all this publicity and success, Diana is also quick to give back to the society. Close to her heart is beyondblue, a non-profit organisation working to address issues like depression, anxiety disorders and related mental disorders.

“My dad’s best friend once said to me, ‘Never lose your compass’. Never forget who you are and where you come from. Remember your core values and be proud of your heritage. People can see through you if you are trying to be someone else.”

一切都是为了突破界限。做些不一样的尝试,不要太固守自封。

一个小女孩看着妈妈以娴熟的手艺在厨房里转悠着,锅炉周边飘散着香料酱汁的浓郁味道。但她从未被委以重要的烹饪工序,甚至不被允许靠近冒着热气的炉子。当她站在那里以美丽大眼睛凝望这一切,没人能想到有一天她会拿下 2017 年澳大利亚顶级厨师的冠军奖杯。

这个拥有100万观众屏息观赏的厨艺竞赛,当评判 Matt Preston 为她所制作的甜点打下9分(满分10分)的时候,气氛完全被引爆,因为这个分数只比她最强力的对手高出1分。五颜六色彩带雨点般落下时,澳大利亚大厨晨爱琳 (Diana Chan) 捧起奖杯脸上挂着圆满的笑容。

“我一直热爱美味的食物。妈妈来自新加坡,是娘惹的后裔(海峡华人),而爸爸和祖母则是出生在马来西亚的槟城。”

晨爱琳19岁的时候移居墨尔本,攻读高校的会计专业。“我一向味觉比较灵敏,享受美食的乐趣,但并非所有的食物都吃得起。于是我去了Camberwell市场,立即爱上那些新鲜的农产品,而市场的景象、声音和香味使我得到启发。虽然对于烹煮还是一知半解,但我一直尝试到成功为止,当然观看很多烹饪节目也是蛮好的一种方式。”

即使她真正的灵感源自父母,但也推荐了一些心仪的厨师。“我看了很多 Yotam Ottolenghi 的美食节目。他让我想起了我母亲,善于运用香草和蔬菜搭配,非常简单易学,但味道很好。至于 George Calombaris 是一位勇于进取的厨师,他对自己的餐厅 The Press Club 充满激情;而我也在 Anthony Bourdain 的身上学习尝试不一样的东西和接受挑战。”

记住你的核心价值观,为自己的传统感到骄傲。如果你想成为别人,非常容易被看穿。

至于晨爱琳在顶级厨师大赛中呈现给评判烤鸡和鲍鱼配绿果汁,奶油咖喱麦片虾和近乎完美的 Kirsten Tibballs 甜点制作。“我只是在最后一次完成烹饪后哭了,那时被强烈的心理压力淹没。”

而她要给予 2018 年参赛者的建议: “一切都是为了突破界限。做些不一样的尝试,不要太固守自封。同时,管理好自己的预期,我总是说确保睡眠必须充足,在任何赢取胜利的厨房里,时间漫长且精神紧绷。”

在冠军光芒笼罩下,晨爱琳勾画了理想餐厅。“健康、新鲜和融合是我产生共鸣的3个重点。这些是我菜肴的特色,我想在菜单上有类似灌输,这样大家可以将我和我的食物联系起来。另外,也计划管理业务,让我的专业学以致用。”

随着大量宣传曝光和尝到成功滋味的同时,晨爱琳也迅速回馈社会。她的奉献目标是 beyondblue,一个致力于解决抑郁症、焦虑症和相关精神障碍等社会问题的非盈
利组织。

“我父亲最好的朋友曾经对我说:永远不要失去你的指南针。不要忘记你是谁和来自哪里,记住你的核心价值观,为自己的传统感到骄傲。如果你想成为别人,非常容易被看穿。”

Photography shoot conducted at Little Collins St Kitchen, Sheraton Hotel, Melbourne