The Language of Bespoke 定制入微

Kok Loong Ho
Couture Designer & Owner of The MOD House
服装设计师兼The MOD House经营者

The latest Couture Fashion Week in New York held a very important element – The MOD House by Malaysian designer KL Ho imprinted on the famous Manhattan runway. Featuring a stunning haute couture collection of Asian-inspired qipao, both shows at the Crowne Plaza Times Square and The Pierre, A Taj Hotel, were fully attended and well received by international fashion buyers, media, socialites and celebrities. The MOD (Malaysian Original Design) House received immediate enquiries and invitations to future couture fashion events in London, Paris and Dubai. With the assistance of Matrade Malaysia and Matrade New York, the label successfully penetrated the US market with its ready-to-wear collection as well.

To me every designer has their personal touch and uniqueness.  I don’t really know how to rank myself, but people are starting to recognise my creations especially in the marriage of the Eastern and Western cultures.

Once an accountant, Ho jokes about venturing from dealing with ‘figures’ on spreadsheets to dressing beautiful feminine ‘figures’ in the glitzy and glamourous world of fashion.

The Seremban boy who studied accountancy and filmmaking started work with KPMG before taking a leap of faith into fashion retail and wholesale. He was soon bosom buddies with top Malaysian designers while the shopping malls were busy clamouring for him. From there on 11 MOD Houses were set up in major shopping centres in Penang and KL.

“Life is all about what you want to do, regardless of your background. I started my fashion journey without any formal education. Relied on my instincts, feelings and horse sense a long way before signing up for a fashion design course very much later.”

While the name KL Ho and The MOD House label soared from local to international recognition, Ho believes that fashion must be practical too. “Currently I’m working on ready-to-wear office attires, available for online purchase and rental. Ladies will now be able to rent work dresses daily.  This will ease dressing woes and benefit them economically.” 

After 15 years in the industry, fashionistas are beginning to trust and revere his creations. Ho was in Melbourne recently to explore possibilities of working with Australian designers and fashion institutes like RMIT.

“I would love to help aspiring fashion designers, if possible. For newcomers, their biggest problem is to get manufacturers to produce for them.  I have a platform where they can contribute their designs while I navigate production and contemplate marketing strategies for them.”

Wearing many hats with ease, this designer extraordinaire will continue to spin bespoke magic, create prêt-à-porter lines and be the commander of his fashion production house with great style and originality. 

在纽约举行的最新时装周展现了一个重要元素 – 由马来西亚设计师KL Ho所带领的The MOD House在著名的曼哈顿T台上绽放光彩。这两场分别在皇冠假日时代广场酒店和皮埃尔泰姬酒店举行的时装表演以亚洲格调的旗袍时装系列为特色,令人赞叹不已。现场汇集了众多国际时尚买家、媒体、社会名流和闻人的高度关注与好评。

来自伦敦、巴黎和迪拜关于未来高级定制时装活动的询问和邀请,犹如雪花般涌向The MOD House (Malaysian Original Design)。在马来西亚外贸促进发展局(Matrade Malaysia)和驻纽约外贸促进发展局(Matrade New York)的推动下,该品牌的成衣系列也成功打入美国市场。

作为会计师开启职业生涯的KL Ho开玩笑表示,自己曾在表格上与“数字”打交道,然后在耀眼魅力的时尚世界里为美丽的女性们“计量”着装。这位出身于芙蓉,具备会计和电影制作专业知识的男人在投身时尚营销行业之前,曾在毕马威(KPMG)会计事务所工作。他迅速与马来西亚顶级设计师打成一片,并成为各大商场的招揽对象。过后分别在槟城和吉隆坡的主要购物商场设立了11家MOD House。

“所谓的人生就是不拘于任何背景,实践你想做的。我没有受过任何正规的教育就开始了时尚设计之旅,仅凭直觉、感觉和常识,直至很长一段时间后,我才报名参加了一项时装设计课程。”虽然KL Ho这名字和The MOD House品牌从杀出本土一路晋级国际市场,但他坚持时尚也必须是实用的想法。“目前,我正在设计一款随时可以在线购买和租赁的办公成衣。女士们现在可以每天租用上班服,除了舒缓服装穿着的烦恼,也减少经济负担。”

“对我来说,每个设计师都具备个人风格和独特性。我真的不知道如何给自己排名定位,但人们开始认同我的创作,尤其东西方文化融汇结合的作品。

在行业领域中度过15年后,这名时尚达人开始对本身创作信心大增。他最近在墨尔本探索与澳大利亚设计师和类似RMIT时尚学术机构合作的可能性。

“如果可以的话,我愿意协助有抱负的时装设计师。对于新手来说,他们最大的问题是寻觅生产制造商。我拥有现成平台,他们可以贡献本身的设计,而我将作为生产导航和提供营销策略。”

这位非凡的设计师将轻松地身兼多职,继续演绎定制魔法,创造云裳风暴系列,并以最佳风格和原创思维成为时装制作公司的指挥官。

By Billie Ooi-Ng Lean Gaik

HELPING NEW MIGRANTS CALL AUSTRALIA “HOME” 让澳大利亚新移民落地为“家”

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Chin Tan

Race Discrimination Commissioner

Sometimes, you can have the best of both worlds – a little bit of Malaysia and much more of Australia. This can help one to understand the bigger picture of societal issues and affairs.

Needless to say, Australia’s new Race Discrimination Commissioner Chin Tan is having the best of both worlds and he is using it for the benefit of others.

“New migrants tend to compare their former country to Australia, or the country they’ve migrated to. You can’t compare because they are two different countries with two different communities. So you have to make the best of what you’ve got and enjoy what you have. People come to Australia because it’s different, but if I was in Malaysia, I will enjoy Malaysia.

New migrants have to adapt and stop trying to live like how they once did in the countries they’ve left,” Chin Tan said.

A TOUGH JOB FOR A TOUGH SITUATION

Born in Malaysia and then coming to Australia for studies and finding his footing as a lawyer in the private sector across a span of more than two decades, he previously ran the Victorian Multicultural Commission and was most recently the director of Multicultural Engagement at Swinburne University in Melbourne. He started his current position in October 2018, although the necessity of the role was questioned initially.

“Well, someone’s got to do it. We’re not here to criticize anyone but help to tackle some issues and make Melbourne a better place. If there are racial issues, we will want to deal with those responsible and call them out as they are,” he said, adding that he wouldn’t evade his responsibilities at the face of recent and challenging political pressures.

Chin Tan doesn’t treat this like a backyard problem – he knows the unique challenges that most migrants will face in a new country. Chin Tan migrated to Australia in the 1980’s and had to learn how to assimilate, start a family and persevere to build his law practice from scratch.

“Honestly, it was probably easier for me to adapt to Australia than others who found it difficult. That’s why we have different government roles provided by resources to support these communities,” 

A lot of what we do is our fulfilment to international convention against discrimination of all sorts: racism, sexism, children exploitation. The great thing about Australia is that it has a democratic framework and people can openly talk about and find solutions for migration and racial issues – two major things that we are facing now,” he said.

BEING GRATEFUL

Chin Tan, who lives in Melbourne with his wife and two children, is grateful for what he has and what he has achieved.

Chin Tan’s daughter who’s recently married is a doctor and his son is also a lawyer. He recalls the hard life of his father who sold charcoal to support his family of nine children and Chin Tan’s grandparents. “He passed away when I was seven. My brother had to take over the business when he was 20 and he only had education until primary three. We didn’t come from a wealthy background and I’m blessed for having many opportunities given to me and be where I am today,” he said.

当一个人可以同时拥有双重最佳世界和文化观:一点点的马来西亚和更具渗透性的澳大利亚元素,能够协助人们了解繁琐迥异的社会结构和掌握事务大局。

这就是澳大利亚新上任的反种族歧视专员陈振良(Chin Tan)的天然优势,并且利用这个机会为他人谋福利。

“新移民倾向于将前国家与澳大利亚,或现在移居的国家进行比较。其实这是错误观念,因为这是不同的国家和不一样的社区。所以,应该做的是必须充分利用和享受现今所拥有的。人们移居澳大利亚是为了转换环境,但如果今天我身在马来西亚,我会喜欢马来西亚。新移民必须学会适应,并停止在之前国家的生活习性和改变心态。”

艰辛任务与困境

陈振良出生在马来西亚,随后来到澳大利亚留学并在私营机构找到了本身的立足点,具备逾20年执业律师履历。他曾掌管维多利亚州多元文化委员会,最近在墨尔本的斯威本大学担任多元文化互动组织理事。

2018年10月,他接下了反种族歧视专员的重担,尽管最初上述职位的必要性受到质疑。“这个总得有人去做。我们不是来批判任何人,而是协助解决一些问题,让墨尔本变得更美好。如果存在种族问题,我们会想办法传召相关负责人以进行应对沟通。”

关于最近面临的政治强压,他也不会逃避责任。陈振良并不把这当成是内部问题—他深深了解大多数移民在一个新国家将面临的独特挑战。犹如他在上个世纪80年代移居澳大利亚,学习如何融入当地社会,组建家庭,坚持白手起家自行成立律师事务所。

“说实话,相比其他觉得很难适应的人们,我很快投入澳大利亚生活。这就是为何有不同的政府资助人员支持这些社区。我们所做的许多工作是履行国际公约,反对并消除一切歧视形式:种族主义、性别歧视和剥削儿童。澳大利亚的伟大之处在于具备民主开放的大框架,人们可以公开谈论并找到解决移民课题和种族矛盾的方法—这是我们现在面临的两大关键难题。”

感恩一切

目前与妻子和儿女定居墨尔本,陈振良对于本身所拥有与取得的成就心怀感激。最近刚结婚的女儿是医生,儿子也是一名律师。他回忆起自己儿时的艰苦生活,卖煤炭维生的父亲为了养活9名孩子和祖父母而奔波操劳。“爸爸在我7岁的时候去世了。我哥哥在20岁的时候接管了业务,他仅有小学三年级的教育程度。我们家境并不富裕,我很幸运获得了许多机会,才能站在今天的位置上。”

by Karina Foo

The Fascinating Pink 粉红魅力

Pink is unlikely the first colour that comes to mind as far as natural lakes are concerned, but Mother Earth does her wonders again. Not only one but in fact, there are quite a few dazzling pink-coloured lakes in Australia.

Unusual but definitely mesmerizing, the causes of this natural phenomenon of having the pinky-touch in the lake water can be varied, but the most common explanation is due to the existence of algae and salt. Depending on seasons and conditions, the colours can sometimes be more vibrant and bolder.

There is however, a forever-pink lake in Western Australia that does not go out of colour. Lake Hillier is a natural wonder on Middle Island, the largest of the islands that make up the Recherche Archipelago off the coast of Esperance.

Lake Hillier

The lake is about 600 meters in length, and is surrounded by a rim of sand and dense woodland of paperbark and Eucalyptus trees. A narrow strip of sand dunes covered by vegetation separates it from the blue Southern Ocean.

No-one fully understands why the lake is pink. Scientists speculate that the colour comes from a dye created by bacteria that lives in the salt crusts. Its pink colour is less accentuated when viewed from the surface but it is very prominent from above. 

The Lake Hillier was first discovered in 1802 by explorer Matthew Flinders who took samples from the lake and mentioned its existence in his journal.

The Pink Lake (Spencer Lake)

There are at least 3 pink lakes in Western Australia, but Spencer Lake is the only one that has been named as Pink Lake. However, it has not been ‘pink’ for quite a while, which is why the Pink Lake is often mistaken as Lake Hillier, even though they are located in two different places.

The Pink Lake is just 7 kilometers from the town of Esperance. Under the right weather conditions, the lake turns a soft shade of pink due to the high concentration of algae in the water. The lake has not turned pink for a while due to the climate.

Hutt Lagoon

From bright bubblegum pink to occasionally even red, the waters of Hutt Lagoon can be an extraordinary sight on the drive between Port Gregory and Kalbarri. The lake is believed to boast a pink hue created by the presence of carotenoid-producing algae, Dunaliella salina.

The lagoon is about 70 square kilometers with most of it lying a few meters below sea level. It is separated from the Indian Ocean by a beach barrier ridge and barrier dune system. 

Occasionally Pink 

Lake Eyre, South Australia

Lake Eyre is a dry expanse of shimmering salt in the South Australian Outback, in a basin so large that it crosses the borders of three states. As the lake dries up and the water evaporates, its salinity increases and it often appears to turn pink. This is in fact caused by a pigment found within an algae species that lives in the lake.

Pink Lake, Meningie – South Australia

On the road between Tailem Bend and Meningie is the Pink Lake. These pink lakes are quite common in dryer areas and are coloured by the presence of algae known as beta carotene in the waters.

Quairading Pink Lake, Western Australia

At certain times of the year, one side of the lake becomes dark pink, while the other side remains a light pink colour. During summer, evaporation causes the water level to drop and salt builds up on the banks and trees. When the water returns, the salt causes the pink colour.

Westgate Park’s lake, Victoria

Westgate Park’s Salt Lake turned pink in response to very high salt levels, high temperatures, sunlight and lack of rainfall. Algae growing in the salt crust at the bottom of the lake produces the red pigment (beta carotene) as part of its photosynthesis process and in response to the extremely high salt levels.

Murray-Sunset National Park, Victoria

There are four salt lakes in the park- Lake Crosbie, Lake Becking, Lake Kenyon and Lake Hardy. The lakes’ waters are actually crystal clear and the beds of the four lakes are made up of solid salt. However, it is the red algae (Dunaliella salina), which grows in the water that gives the lakes their pink hue. 

粉红色,绝不会是你对湖泊的第一个颜色联想,但偏偏大地之母就爱不靠谱的给我们带来惊喜,粉红湖就如此惊艳登场,而且在澳洲不仅有一个粉红湖,散落各地的粉红湖等着旅人来寻宝呢!

其实这粉红湖有各种因素导致蓝变红,其中最常见的情况是因藻类及盐所造成,同时气候及季节的变化也会使粉红湖湖水的色泽产生变化。

至于在澳洲的粉红湖中就以西澳的希利尔湖最为有名,而且将粉红进行到底,一年四季都粉红,是埃斯佩兰斯海岸外的一道奇观,处于洛切切群岛中最大的岛屿─中央岛。

希利尔湖
这粉红湖长达600公尺,并由白千层及桉树茂密的林地及沙滩环绕着,而湖与海之间仅相隔着一座狭长的沙丘带。

这湖水染红的导因至今无人能解,而根据科学家推测,可能源自盐壳中的细菌所制造出的色素。然而,站在湖旁观色,这粉红湖的水色较淡,但只要从上方俯瞰,这却是不折不扣的粉红湖。

希利尔湖是于1802年被探险家马修费莲达发现,当时他还取了湖水样本,并记截于其探险日志中。

粉红湖(Spencer Lake)
在西澳有至少3座粉红湖,但只有此湖被命名为粉红湖。不过,这湖水已久未粉红,所以一提起粉红湖,经常被误会为是希利尔湖,但事实是,这是两座在完全不同地方的湖泊。

粉红湖距离埃斯佩兰斯市7公里,如果天作美,湖水会因密集的藻类变得粉红,但这老天就是不作美,导致粉红湖久未露出真本色了。

赫特潟湖
这湖水偶而是艳丽的粉红,有时也会是烈日当红。只要途经格雷戈里小镇及卡尔巴里之间,就不难发现这一道美景。一般相信这湖水因杜氏盐藻产生的类胡萝卜素而染红。这潟湖面积达70平方公里,与印度洋之间仅由山岭及沙丘相隔。

偶而粉红

艾尔湖,南澳
艾尔湖地区是澳洲最干旱、最低的地理点,因横跨3州,也是澳洲最大的咸水湖。当湖水蒸发,盐度增加之际,便会出现粉红色的结晶,而这也是藻类的杰作。

梅宁吉粉红湖,南澳
在泰勒姆本德及梅宁吉之间有一座粉红湖,也因藻类产生的胡萝卜素而导致较干燥处变红。

Quairading粉红湖,西澳
一年内在固定的时段,一边的湖水呈深红而另一边则是粉红色,这是因为湖水蒸发时,在湖边及树上残留的盐份,会在湖水恢复时呈粉红色。

西门公园的湖泊,维多利亚
因高盐、高温、烈日及缺雨染红了西门公园的湖泊。这是因为湖中的藻类因光合作用所产生的胡萝卜素遇上高盐而变色。

穆累-日落国家公园,维多利亚
在这国家公园内有4座咸水湖,即Crosbie、Becking、Kenyon及Hardy湖,虽然湖水清澈,但因湖底的高盐成份遇上红藻而让湖水看似有点粉红。