Marching To A Different Beat 迈着迥异节拍行进

Anthony & Jason LuiAnthony & Jason Lui

Owner and General Manager of the Flower Drum Restaurant

万寿宫中餐馆经营者与总经理


“History aside we built a pretty strong and loyal customer base with our food and service. We pride ourselves in using the best ingredients and providing premium customer service. We like to look after our guests and make sure they enjoy our food every time they come in.”

Third generation restaurateur Jason Lui, with deep roots in traditional Cantonese cuisine, is the man at the helm of Melbourne’s elegant Flower Drum, a multi-award winning restaurant lined with exquisite Chinese art and plush carpets. However, aesthetics are not their only asset.

While his father, head chef Anthony Lui is the secret weapon of Flower Drum, the father and son team is formidable, carving a name for themselves, not only as one of the best Chinese restaurants but one of the best restaurants in Melbourne.

Originally set up by Gilbert Lau in 1975 along Little Bourke Street, Flower Drum moved to its current location at Market Lane in 1985. The culinary awards never stopped pouring in and the famed restaurant is usually booked months ahead.

Born in Hong Kong, Jason Lui left his hometown when he was only three. “I don’t remember much about Hong Kong. I’ve lived in Melbourne most of my life. Growing up in Bulleen I went to the usual Australian and Catholic schools, and eventually the university, to do a double degree in marketing and finance.”

The more acclaimed Anthony Lui became, the less Jason saw of his father. “I was living with a chef father who was very busy all the time. Mum passed away when I was quite young. My brother and I looked after each other, split the house chores between us, and did homework by ourselves. My father did the best he could and more, so I count myself very fortunate to be in this family,” he shares.

Anthony Lui took over Flower Drum in 2000. It was only natural that junior joined the ranks. “Back then Gilbert Lau was still around and was a very strong industry legend. I was lucky to be able to learn from him and my father. I started doing everything – busboy, front of house, kitchen hand, got my hands dirty so to speak.”

The double degree came in handy as well. “Everyday life here involves marketing and finance. It’s a good fit I suppose.”

In a successful restaurant, pressure is always part of the menu. Working with one’s father can double that tension but Jason sees the bright side.

There are, of course, generational differences. “My dad is always a steady hand about consistency, keeping things the same as much as possible. For me, change excites me, new things excite me. Sometimes it is difficult to find a balance.”

Anthony & Jason Lui

“It’s amazing getting to know him and the depth of his knowledge and skill. His work ethics are second to none, something I aspire to. The best part is to be able to see a lot more of him.”

The Flower Drum signature is emblazoned across this gastronomic haven. Jason recommend, “The iconic and traditional Peking duck wrapped in handmade pancakes and baked crab shells in creamy turmeric sauce. Noodles made from wild barramundi is another popular demand. Our guests love my father’s cooking style, which is quite delicate and clean.”

Hard work is paramount in the restaurant business. Jason Lui’s personal advice to newbies, “Work hard and don’t deviate too much from your original cuisine”. Not so different for his father’s words of wisdom, “Work and work hard. Do it and do it well.”

Jason Lui
Jason Lui

身为第三代餐厅经营者,Jason Lui深入扎根传统粤菜。他掌管着墨尔本优雅中餐馆“万寿宫”,这是一家屡获殊荣的餐厅,精致韵味十足的中式迎宾装潢设计。然而,美学不是他们唯一的资产。

他的父亲,餐馆主厨吕兆培(Anthony Lui)是万寿宫的秘密武器,父子军团队配合无间,彻底打响金字招牌,不仅是墨尔本最好的餐厅之一,也是极负盛名的中餐馆。

万寿宫原本是由刘华铿 (Gilbert Lau) 于1975年沿着Little Bourke Street创立,并于1985年搬迁至目前Market Lane的位置,所荣获的各种厨艺烹饪奖项更是从来没停过,这家餐馆的预订必须几个月前进行。

“除了本身的历史,透过食物和服务,我们建立了相当稳固忠实的客户群,我们也为使用最好的食材而自豪,当然包括优质的服务。而确保客人拥有最佳用餐体验,让他们每次光临皆对餐馆的食物和氛围享受不已。”

香港出生的Jason在3岁时离开了家乡。“香港的一切有点记忆模糊。因为我大部分时间定居在墨尔本。我在Bulleen区长大,如一般澳大利亚人就读天主教学校,完成大学营销和金融双学位。”

随着父亲名气渐渐上升,两父子相处的时间锐减。“我和一位厨师父亲住在一起,他一直很忙碌。我年少时母亲就去世了,我们兄弟互相照顾,分摊家务,还有做好自己的家庭作业。父亲已经尽全力做到最好,我非常庆幸身为这个家庭中一份子。”他分享。

由于父亲在2000年接管了万寿宫,年轻的他就顺理成章的加入行列。“当时刘华铿还在餐馆,他是行业中声名显赫的传奇人物,我很幸运能够从他和我父亲那里学习。我开始从打杂工做起,无论是跑前台大堂或去厨房帮手,双手弄得脏兮兮。”

当然,修读的双学位也起了作用。“餐馆的日常运作涉及市场营销和财务,这对我来说很合适。而作为一家的成功餐厅,其实更多的压力源自于菜单。和父亲拍档其实心情加倍紧张,但Jason只看到美好的一面。

 

Baked Crab Shell
Baked Crab Shell

“我更了解父亲,他的知识和技能深度是惊人的。他的职业道德可说是无人能及,是我追求的榜样,最重要的是能够看到更深层多面的他。”

至于存在的世代差异观念问题。“我父亲一直尽可能保持稳定或讲求一致性。可是,对我而言,新事物激励着我,我想寻求变化,有时比较难以找到平衡点。”

有关这个美食天堂的标志性菜肴。“我们的招牌菜是传统北京烤鸭包裹着手制薄煎饼和奶油姜黄酱烤蟹壳。而野生盲鰽(barramundi)鱼肉制成的面条是另一道受欢迎菜品。客人们喜爱我父亲的烹饪手法,细致而利落的风格。“

而餐厅经营中至关重要的就是辛勤工作。Jason对于新人的建议:“努力工作,不要过于偏离原味美食”。至于他父亲的智慧箴言并没有太大的区别:“工作和努力工作,去做而且要做好。”


by Billie Ooi-Ng Lean Gaik